VENICE on a budget - when to go, where to stay, what to eat, and much more

Visiting Venice can be pretty pricey: You find yourself at one of world's most unique places - and it comes with a price tag.


Italy Venice Canale Grande
Every visitor to Venice will know this sight: The Chiesa di San Simeon Piccolo across from the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia, photographed from the Ponte degli Scalzi.

I've been coming to Venice for years - at least every other year to visit the Biennale di Arte. Consequently, I'm not going there for these overpriced touristy places and services. I enjoy Venice on a budget - and believe me, I enjoy it to the max. Therefore, in this post, I'm sharing my best tips on when to go, where to stay, what to eat, and much more.

No, I will not surprise you with the information that there is a Saint Mark's Square to be visited, the clock tower to be climbed and many canals to be rowed. You'll find all this in every guide book, on each website, or even the smallest brochure.


Italy Venice Canale Grande
As Venetian as it gets: Gondolas on the Canale Grande and the Rialto bridge in the backdrop.

I'll make you Venice-savvy and show you how to get more for less.

When To Go


Yes, thinking of Italy, sole comes to mind, gelato melting in the sun, running over your fingers and dripping on your favorite white dress.


Italy Venice Gelato
Following my Venice-hacks, there will be enough money left for some gelato.

Italy is the epitome of summer. And summer is the busiest and most expensive season - I would avoid it at any price. It's hot, it's full, it's expensive.
If you haven't been to Venice before and you want to stroll through the narrow alleys and admire the fantastic architecture and sit on benches in small parks, you should rather pick the shoulder seasons from March to May and September to October.
Even then, you won't get lonely, but it's much better than in the summer months.


Italy Venice Saint Mark's Square
Saint Mark's Square in winter. During acqua alta, the high tide, these pedestals set up so people can walk in the alleys and on the squares. 

If you've been to Venice before, if you have lost your way a hundred times in the narrow alleys and taken a thousand pictures of the scenic squares and structures and now want to see all the great museums, churches, and scuole from the inside, than you can happily come back between November and February - except the Christmas week and the Carnivale weeks in February.
You'll find accommodations very easily and you'll pay a fraction of the summer rate.


Italy Venice Chiesa della Pietà - Santa Maria della Visitazione
Safet Zec's Exodus at the Santa Maria della Visitazione: Scenes depicting different scenarios of refugee and the hardship of migration, painted in the narrative fashion of the old masters like e. g. Tintoretto or Veronese.
Entrance to this wonderful exhibition is free.

However, the whole concept is completely different from summer vacation: It's quite cold and a rough wind is blowing from the waters. Also, there tend to be acqua alta, the infamous high tide, when Venetians put up pedestals to be able to walk the streets.

So if you're coming for the exhibitions, for Tintoretto's amazing paintings at the Gran Scuola di San Rocco, for Tizian's Annunciation at the Chiesa di San Salvador and all the other wonders, this is the time. All the great sights like Saint Mark's Basilica and the Palazzo Ducale are significantly emptier, lines are shorter, everything is better.

Also, if you are coming for one of the biennials - in my last post, I've introduced the current Biennale di Arte - it doesn't matter that much which month you pick, therefore, you can happily opt for a less sunny period.

How To Get There


Train


If you are already in Italy, you'll probably get to Venice by train. Despite all complaints from frequent travellers, trenitalia offers a really good service at very reasonable prices. However, especially on weekends, trains tend to be very full, particularly the regional ones. The only recommendation I'd like to give you here is to make reservation in advance where possible and to travel as light as you can to be more comfortable.

In Venice, there are two train stations: Mestre on the mainland and Santa Lucia at the historic center. Trains between these two stations are going frequently, so if you accidentally get off at Mestre, it's no biggy, the next train will take you to the final stop in a couple of minutes.


Italy Venice Cruise Ship
No matter how you get to Venice, please do not come here on a cruise ship. Don't destroy what you love.

If you chose to find an accommodation at Mestre, and there are a couple of reasons why this is a good idea - I'll get to that later, you can get by regional train to Santa Lucia in about ten minutes, and the ticket costs 1,35 €uro.

Oftentimes it's better to take the bus, though, since, obviously, not every accommodation is close to the train station.

But I'll get to the local public transportation later.

Bus


Flixbus is conquering the world - at least world's European part, hence it's also serving Venice. It might not be the fastest way to travel, but it's quite comfortable and definitely the cheapest. For instance from Munich or Vienna, a one-way trip sets you back around 30 €uros, from Rome only 25.

The Flixbus stops in Venice are found at the Tronchetto parking lot close to the cruise terminal and at the Mestre train station.

To check schedules and prices, visit their website.

Flight


If you fly into Venice, you'll land either at Venezia Marco Polo or Treviso airport.

Treviso is about 40 kilometers from Venice and the easiest way to get either to Mestre or Piazzale Roma at the historic center is by ATVO bus. It takes about an hours and costs 12 €uro one way or 22 €uro if you buy a roundtrip.

Arriving at Marco Polo, which is only about 15 kilometers from the city, you have various options to get to Mestre or the historic center. The ATVO bus #35 takes you there in 20 to 30 minutes.

A far more spectacular way to travel is by the Alilaguna boat.
Especially on a sunny day, it's just dreamy and actually the first beautiful sight of your beautiful vacation - crossing the lagoon by boat with the view of this unbelievable place.

Alilaguna stops at various stations around the main island and then goes to the Lido. So it's recommendable to check where you're staying and get off near that spot.


Italy Venice Vaporetto
Unusual arrival at an unusual city.

But what if you're not staying at the historic center? Then you can still go by boat, but in this case, I'd advise you to get off at the Cruise Terminal (blue line) and cross the Ponte della Costituzione to the train station Santa Lucia where you can leave your luggage and start exploring the city right away.

Especially during the summer months the storage is often full so you have to either wait or chose a privately operated consigne bagagli: A couple of stores offer to store your stuff for a little fee and there even are various locker rooms at different spots in the center.
But be aware that these places close much earlier than the one at the station.


Italy Venice Two Porters
Porters at the Santa Lucia station are waiting for visitors who are not willing to schlepp their belongings through the busy and hot city themselves.

If you chose to go back to the airport by alilaguna, too, take into consideration that the space on the boat is limited and if it's full, it's full. Since I'm a nervous person, I would not risk it . Also, after having enjoyed the canals for a couple of days in Venice, I can comfortably go back to the airport by bus and be sure to get there on time.

Where To Stay


Prices for accommodations are much higher from March till September. In November, I paid a fraction of the high season's price. Also during the unpopular Winter months, the city is emptier than in Summer - albeit, never abandoned.

I personally experienced the least amount of tourists end of February right after the carnival.


Italy Venice Hotel Antico Doge
The hotel Antico Doge is one of the most centrally located accommodations - for about 160 €uros a night.

Especially if you've been to Venice before and do not need this Venetian overdose, you might want to check out accommodations on the Veneto's mainland like at the adjacent city of Mestre or even farther away like Quarto d'Altino.

Although I've also witnessed strikes and heard many complaints, I insist that Italy has an expansive and reliable system of public transport. Therefore, it is really easy to commute into the historic center and back, I've done it during many stays myself.


Italy Venice Sina Centurion Palace
 If you're not on a budget, the Sina Centurion Palace might be a good place to crash - setting you back more than 400 €uros per night.

The closest and best accessible alternative to the center would be Mestre. You can get to Venice Santa Lucia from there by train for 1,35  €uro. But there is also a tram as well as many buses going every couple of minutes for 1,50  €uro for a single trip. If you buy more tickets, you even pay only 1,40.


Italy Venice Bus to Mestre
When in Venice, do like the Venetians do: Commuting in full busses.

Although Mestre is less expensive than Venice, it's not cheap since the trick staying ten minutes away from the action is not so very genius. Hosts in Mestre are aware of that and know what they can ask from you. However, I'm always paying about 40 to 50 €uro per night.

Another alternative are the hotels at Quarto d'Altino*, a charmless place less than half an hour by train from Santa Lucia. Surprisingly there are a couple of houses like the Crowne Plaza* and Best Western Hotel Airvenice* in that area.
The trains to and from Venice go every 30 minutes and one trip costs 3,55 €uro. It's not the best option, but it's an option just the same. I myself did it twice on really short stays and it was okay. Commuting all the way out there for a longer time, though, might be unnerving.

You'll find accommodations in the urban fringe on booking.com* and privately run B&Bs on www.bedandbreakfast.it.


How To Explore


Like I said, I will not tell you that there is the Doge's Palace and the Rialto bridge to be visited.


Italy Venice  Saint Mark's Square with the tower, the basilica, and the Palazzo Ducale.
Iconic Saint Mark's Square with the tower, the basilica, and the Palazzo Ducale. 

But I tell you that you can visit sights on a cheaper price and without waiting in line by buying e. g. the Museum Pass that costs 32,40 €uro and then grants you free entrance to the 11 most important state museums and palazzi in Venice. The best way to get it is by ordering it online, this way, you save even more time.


Italy Venice: View from the Punta della Dogana's Belvedere: The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute and partial view of the Canale Grande.
View from the Punta della Dogana's Belvedere: The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute and partial view of the Canale Grande.

On my first trip to Venice, I did the whole show with taking the Vaporetto and all that jazz. Since you're paying about 7 €uro for a single ticket, you might understand that it lost it's charm quite quickly and I'm mostly walking - especially since taking the Vaporetto is another great opportunity spending your vacation waiting and queuing.


Italy Venice Gondola
The gondolas are definitely the most expensive way of exploring the city.

However, if you want to take the Vaporetto, and I perfectly understand that you do, you should get day passes instead of individual tickets. For 24 hours, you pay 20 €uro, 30 €uro for 48 hours, 40 €uro for 72 hours, and 60 €uro for a week - which in comparison is a really good price, very similar to what you pay in big cities for day passes for the terrestrial public transport.

The whole somewhat confusing price policy of ACTV, the local transport company, is to find on their website.


He's looking at you, kid: The glorious ceiling at the Accademia.

You can also combine your activities and the travels on one tourist card, the Venezia Unica City Pass, where you add online activities and the a. m. ACTV-passe and then print it out before you arrive.

Young people between 6 and 29 can get a Rolling Venice Card that grants them reduced entrance fees and cheaper Vaporetto tickets and more; note that kids under 6 years of age don't have to pay, anyway.


Italy Venice Selfie shooting couple
Young people pay even lower prices at landmarks and attractions.

Like in most other touristy cities there's a free walking tour in Venice, too. Every day, there is a tour at 10 a. m. as well as at 3 p. m. that takes about two hours. You can book online and meet the group at Campo Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.


Italy Venice View from the Punta della Dogana's Belvedere
View of the island's eastern part from the Punta della Dogana's Belvedere.

Although it's very touristy, indeed, on a sunny day, an organized trip to the other Islands like Murano with its glass artisans, the fishing village of Burano with its lace industries and the great church houses of Torcello is just beautiful.

If you want to visit Murano on your own, you can catch the Vaporetto at the stop Fondamente Nove. In case you need to buy an individual ticket, get one to the first stop called Colonna. This way, the trip costs only 5 €uro and Murano is so small that you'll walk criss cross, anyway.


Totally worth it checking out the surrounding islands, too. Here you have a great view of the Zattere bank from the Giudecca island.

Extra-Tip: During the Biennale di Arte, which takes place every odd-numbered year, many of the old palazzi are housing the so-called country-pavilions. While these buildings normally cannot be accessed as you please, during this mega art event, you get to see outstanding art at outstanding structures - for free!


Italy Venice Ponte della Accademia
Biennale di Arte 2019 - advertised on the Ponte della Accademia.

Venice Italy Palazzo Contarini Polignac
Exhibition of paintings and sculptures by German artist Günther Förg at the Palazzo Contarini Polignac.
Quirky twist: Taking pictures of the exhibits was allowed, taking pictures of the venue forbidden. Still don't know how I was supposed to take pictures of his work without the palace around it.

For information on this year's biennial, check out last week's post.

Where To Eat


You might have noticed by now that I am very passionate about art - but also about churches and temples, alleys, and squares. Although I like cooking and love food, when travelling, I consider it a waste of time - actually, I think this is the downside of travelling by myself: This sitting around at a restaurant for an hour just to stuff face is not for me.

Plus, in Italy, they are especially chilled about serving, here you learn where the word waiter stems  from: You wait for him to bring the menu, you wait for him to take your order for drinks, you wait for him to come back with your drinks, you wait for him to take your order for food - and it goes on and on till you wait for him to finally take your money.
I'm not making time for this.


Aperitivo with a view.

Fortunately, Italy is street and fast food heaven. I'm not talking burgers'n'fries here, I'm talking juicy pizza, fat-dripping focaccia or sandwiches with prosciutto di Parma; everything that's guaranteed vitamin free and rich in carbohydrates.
So I'm having a piece of heaven for lunch while pacing to the next museum. In the evening, I enjoy an epic aperitivo and call it a happy foodie day.

Here are the top places in Venice for my kind of diet:

Pizza


It's very difficult to find bad pizza in Italy, and many of the stands that sell a slice of pizza for about 2,50 to 3 €uro will be even excellent.

The best one in Venice is definitely Rizzo. They have various stores around Venice, selling bread, pastries, and hearty snacks.

Italy Venice Aperitivo
Rizzo does not have exclusively pizza, they sell also other Mediterranean snacks such as shrimps, crab, Mozzarella in Carozza, breaded mozzarella cheese, and breaded eggplants.  A feast for a handful of €uros.

Their pizza comes in long stripes and is covered with the finest toppings like gorgonzola and nuts, quattro formaggi  - whereby the formaggi are like triple of the dough - all sorts of prosciutto and veggies - it's fantastic. They also sell other treats like tarts and sandwiches and at the opposite counter a variety of cakes and pies. Everybody finds something he falls for at Rizzo.


Italy Venice Pizza at Rizzo Pane
Just look at these toppings!

Rizzo Pane
S. Leonardo
Cannaregio 1355
30121 Venice
Phone: + 39 - 41 - 71 83 22
Email: info@rizzovenezia.it

Tramezzini


Ever heard of Tramezzini? They are triangles of soggy, unroasted toast, but that doesn't matter since the bread is only the wrapper for the delicious fillings.

These are not a couple of thin slices, nope, they are a big heap of the finest Italian delicacies: prosciutto, egg, gamberi, which are shrimps, carciofi, in English artichokes, radicchio, you name it. To help the shredded stuff holding together, they are stirred with just the right amount of mayonnaise to a heavenly mixture and then bedded between two slices of toast.
It's good that the toast is mushy because this way, there is more capacity for the filling.


Italy Venice A tramezzino with crab and rocket to the left and to the right with lots of ham.
A tramezzino with crab and rocket to the left and to the right with lots of ham.

I limit myself to three pieces in one meal, but let me tell you, the choice is far harder than the soft bread.

The juiciest tramezzini are waiting for you just around the corner from the Accademia at

Bar alla Toletta
Via Dorsoduro 1191
30123 Venice
Phone: +39 - 41 - 520 01 96


Italy Venice Bar alla Toletta
Bar alla Toletta = Tramezzini-Heaven

Aperitivo and Hot Food Counters


I don't really get the aperitivo concept, but I still love it. Why I don't get it? Because an aperitif is supposed to tickle your appetite for a complete meal.


Italy Venice Whine and Crisps
What better way to end the day and begin the evening than a glass of ice-cold whine and a handful of crisps.

It Italy, the aperitivo often is a complete meal - and in comparison darn cheap: at the not over touristy places you pay between €uro 5 and 8 for an aperitivo that includes a glass of something like a Spritz and a small buffet with all sorts of niblets. Sometimes, it's only some potato chips or pieces of bruschetta, but at times, it's really fancy stuff like tomatoes with crab stuffing or some nice pasta.



Italy Venice Aperitivo
 Finest snacks at the Cantina Vecia Carbonera: a melanzane parmigiano,  a fine little meatloaf, and a piece of bread with gorgonzola and nuts - and a glass of Spritz.

The best place to get a delicious aperitivo is surprisingly located on the very exposed arterial street strada nova. It is called Cantina Vecia Carbonera and to be found right at the corner of the bridge over Rio Terà de la Maddalena.

Cantina Vecia Carbonera
Cannaregio 2329
30121 Venice
Phone: + 39 - 41 - 71 03 76

If you don't want to hang around at restaurants and still eat Italian and well, supermarkets can be a great option: You can get fresh bread and cheese from the respective counters. There is a variety of salads and antipasti either pre-packed or at the deli-counter. And finally, there is the hot food counter where you can buy grilled chicken and meats and roast potatoes and other yummy foods that you then can enjoy at your accommodation or as a picknick at a park.


Italy Venice Tartufo Shop
To be honest, this was my favorite aperitivo this year: Sampling all the heavenly truffle spreads at La Bottega del Tartufo.

However, do not sit on the stairs of churches or bridges - either resting or picknicking: Venice installed pretty strict laws on how to behave in the city since many visitors didn't behave very respectfully.


Italy Venice Policemen
These two make sure than visitors behave.

Mind you, Venice is still a city and not a theme park.

Restaurants


Of course, apart from all these snacks you will be sampling throughout the day, there comes a moment for a seated meal. Blessedly, there are still some good options at Venice that are not a complete rip-off - here they are:

Cà D'Oro alla Vedova
Cannaregio 3912
30121 Venice
Phone: + 39 - 41 - 528 53 24


Italy Venice Dining couple at the Giudecca


Rosticceria San Bartolomeo/Rosticceria Gislon
Sottoportego della Bissa 5424
(Close to Rialto)
30121 Venice
Phone: +39 - 41 - 522 35 69

Trattoria dalla Marisa
Fondamenta San Giobbe
Cannaregio 652/B
30121 Venice
Phone: + 39 - 41 -72 02 11


Italy Venice Florian
At the city's most famous café, the Florian, where you pay for a cup of coffee more than elsewhere for an entire meal.

Usually, I'm not a dessert person - unless it's cheese. However, Italian food is just so amazing - even when it comes to dolci, sweets. My absolutely favorite pasticceria is named....Dolce Vita, the sweet life. Actually, I have nothing to add. Oh wait, there is one thing: One of the best gelato places is just across the street.


Italy Venice Coffee and cakes


Dolce Vita
Ruga dei Spezieri 378
30125 Venezia
Phone: + 39 - 41 - 522 83 80

Here's an overview of the places mentioned in this post:





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30 comments:

  1. Since I haven't been to Italy yet this was perfect. Especially the tip to buy tickets ahead of time. I'm also a solo traveller and can relate about sitting in a restaurant. The fast food options are perfect

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Venice is not only for couples in love, it's also perfect for us solo travellers - once you go, you'll love it!

      Delete
  2. It sounds like summer in Venice is much like summer in Florida, hot and crowded. It's amazing how many people keep coming for both. When I make it to Venice, I will be sure to explore the surrounding islands too.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha, there is still far more space for the masses in Florida ;-)

      Delete
  3. Loves this Venice guide! I really enjoyed Venice much more than I expected, but mostly went to off-the-beaten path places and stayed at a hostel quite far from St. Marks. Overall was fabulous! Great guide I wlll bookmark to save money next time I go!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I love Venice again and again - it never gets old; and the areas off the beaten path are still very....Italian.

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  4. Love that you went beyond the normal recommendations of Venice! While yes, everyone should see the canals and St. Mark's, there's so much more than just those things. Love love love it! I'm jealous you've gone so many times.

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    Replies
    1. Thanx, glad you appreciate it. I really don't think the world needs me to be informed on the standard tourist stuff - you cannot avoid it, anyway ;-)

      Delete
  5. Cant believe Ive never been to Venice! I didnot know young people had discounted prices. Looks like I might have to make two trips - one for the food, and one for the art! I had never considered Venice as a budget destination. Bookmarking this!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey, I can't believe I haven't been to so many great places. At least I still have a lot to look forward to....Happy travels to you!

      Delete
  6. Budget and Venice don't automatically go hand in hand, so thank you for showing us that it can be an affordable destination. I like the idea of the museum pass which offers discounts to several museums. That's what I'd like to explore so that makes a lot of sense. Eating aperitivo and buying prepared food from the supermarkets are also great ways to save money. Bookmarking this post for my future Venice trip.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Venice is one of these cities where you can spend a fortune - or having fun on a budget; both ways work just fine.

      Delete
  7. I'd love to visit Italy someday, so this was very helpful! The date suggestions were especially helpful. Nice weather is great, but if you can't enjoy what you're there to see, it isn't worth it. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The weather is nice during shoulder seasons, too, so you can escape the crowds easily.

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  8. Love your tips, so useful. Didn't even know about the Museum Pass, will have to try that the next time I go. It will save so much time and so many things will be available.
    Also, I haven't considered visiting in November and judging by your experience, it seems that I should, at least once. Thanks, I enjoyed reading it. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, the Museum Pass is great if you want to visit the Musei Civici. The best thing is, it's good for six months, so that you might use it on separate trips.

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  9. Venice is one of my favorite places! I love how you addressed things to do on a budget and how to find discount to many of the popular things to do! Thank you for sharing! xo - kam

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's been one of my favorite cities forever now - and will always be!

      Delete
  10. We went in shoulder season too and it was perfect, both in terms of crowds and weather. I just love that city, despite what people say about it. Travelling on a budget is an art and your tips are great.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, for outdoor activities, shoulder season is best. If you want to see all the museums, it can be even better in November or another ugly month ;-)

      Delete
  11. Wandering Venice aimlessly is always time well spent. Purchasing an all day Vaporetto pass is a great tip, but waiting in line multiple times doesn’t sound appealing. It’s a dilemma for sure. I visited Burano in the evening while it was pouring down rain. Everything was closed, I was super bummed and need to return.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I wander Venice if I like or not - I don't have a great sense of orientation and Venice is just a maze; a lovely, mesmerizing maze!

      Delete
  12. I always had the idea that Venice was an expensive city but it's great to know that there are so many options to save some money (on time on queues) on a trip like this. Never would have guess that you could buy a day pass for the Vaporetto. Thanks for the tip!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It can be very expensive - but it doesn't have to be!

      Delete
  13. This sounds like such a cool city – but would not love to visit. Especially since it has been forever that I visited Italy.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Oh would never forget this floating wonder! Glad you got that gelato. It's such an endless maze there. Got lost too many times.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm constantly getting lost there - it doesn't even drive me nuts anymore. I love it that you call it a floating wonder <3

      Delete
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  16. Ah, Venice. I like that your guide focuses on the budget benefits of offseason travel. Actually, I like to visit cities, especially, during the offseason. Meandering through the countryside and/or lounging at the coast are better enjoyed in the warm months, so city escapes make more sense to me for winter getaways. Though I've been to Italy, I have yet to experience Venice. I should definitely remedy that. This post has inspired me.

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