Saturday, September 15, 2018

Croatia Bus Road Trip. Sixth Stop Split

I guess you can judge by the frequency of my posts that I'm moving at a rapid pace: Actually, after two cozy, lazy nights on the island of Cres, I've spent four nights in a row in different places.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
View from the bell tower - the lowest level of the cathedral's bell tower: I'm afraid of heights and the staircase is pretty open....

Split is the last destination on this - however, very inspiring - tour de force. I've checked it out in a split second - you can judge from this pun that I need a break, I guess - before moving on to the island of Korčula where I'll spend four nights in a row - in one single place!

I don't even know exactly what's on the bottom of my far too full and heavy suitcase. I never have the chance to dig that deep since I arrive at a place, take out my nightgown and my toiletry kit, stow dirty clothes from the day and take out a possible outfit for the next one, making sure not to crumple everything else.

The next morning, I put back the gown and the slightly lighter kit and off I go to the next destination. I might have spent as much as seven hours at some of the Apartman.


The poshest Apartman so far was in Rijeka. I'd spent there about nine hours - many of them sleeping.

Why do I even have sandals with me - I've been wearing my trainers five days in a row. I don't like to travel in sandals since I want my feet being protected and during the day, I was mostly hiking. So you cannot expect me to be too much of a fashionista.

Since it's me who put together this itinerary - and nobody pointed a gun to my head while I did so - I shouldn't be complaining. And at the end of the day, I don't, because given that I have only three weeks for this trip, I've seen a lot; and each and every destination was totally worth it.

So now Split.

When I arrived, it was already dark, Google Maps had me a bit confused so that I was dragging my far too full and heavy suitcase on a bumpy street along the coastline. The little that I was able to make out in the dark looked beautiful - and in some way, it also felt beautiful.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
When it's pitch dark as you arrive, but people are still hanging out on the beach bathing, you certainly came to a great place.

I spent my couple of hours till the next morning in a neighborhood that seemed pretty posh to me: Tennis courts along the coastline, elegant restaurants and hip bars on the other side of the road. The Apartman located in a modern flat roof building - this could be in every country on planet earth, really.

After a stay of about eight hours - spent mostly sleeping - I dragged my far too full and heavy suitcase back to the port, adjacent to the bus stop where I'd arrived only a couple of hours ago.

One of the many things that are really great in Croatia is the fact that you always find storage for your luggage. And if there isn't a room in a building, they just set up some mobile container thingy where you can leave your far too full and heavy suitcase for something like three bucks.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
The promenade in Split.

Three bucks are like nothing in exchange for exploring the totally fascinating old town worry- and suitcase-free.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
While the structures are breathtaking, the professional Romans are a bit silly; and, obviously, their heart is not really in it.

Old town - here we are not talking just Italian and Hungro-Austrian, here we're talking serious history: Roman structures, completed by Egyptian decoration. The lovely café around the Perystile, the famous court of the Diocletian Palace is called Luxor for a reason: Since Egypt was part of the Roman empire just like this area, they brought some souvenirs from Luxor for decoration.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
This picture shows, on the one hand, the eclectic mix of Roman and Egyptian architecture; on the other, that even in September, i.e. off-season, the place is packed. July and August must be fresh hell - temperaturewise and visitorwise alike.

Everywhere you go, it's beautiful and impressive and fascinating.






A quick side-trip back in time V

I was fourteen, a bit tangled in the arms of puberty, but totally ready for my first trip by myself. At fourteen, by yourself does hardly ever mean by yourself, usually, there are some strings like summer camps, distant relatives, or linguistic group trips involved. In my case, latter: Three weeks on the Isle of Wight - and I didn't even know about the legendary music festival then.
Armed with a buttload of good advice, a checked suitcase as well as a small hand luggage carrying what was dearest to me, my parents put me - together with about a zillion other teenagers - on a train to Oostende.

Train? To England? Yes, at that time, flying was just for the big shots. The rest crossed the canal to the British Island by ferry. So did we.

I spare you the details of a totally overcrowded ferry and a totally overexcited me, at some point leaving my hand luggage in the custody of some guy I had known for about 6.5 minutes while going to the bathroom. 

I cut the story short: 
Good news was, I got to Hastings fine. 
I assume that my hand luggage - containing everything that was too dear to make it into checked luggage including all my cash for the next three weeks among the English - made it to Hastings, too. Unfortunately, we did so separately. 
The guy that I had known for about 6.5 minutes turned out not to be as reliable as expected: He hadn't watched my bag. 
So I guess you can say: Bad news was, I had lost all my valuables before even setting foot on British soil.

I looked for it everywhere, I asked everybody that crossed my way, on the parking lot, I got into each and every bus - it was gone.
After a very sad bus ride - and there must have been another ferry trip that I obviously pushed it to the far back of my mind - we reached the Isle of Wight. 

To make up for my - pretty dramatic - loss, faith was kind and I was assigned to the youngest and prettiest of the guest parents waiting for our lot: Lynn. 22 years young- I think the oldest students in our group were almost 20 - with long blond hair and sweet and tender ways; exactly the person you want to be around after a major loss. 

She had a husband, Bill, totally nuts and a huge Rod Steward fan. He proved it by wearing his hair in the terrible Rod Steward style from the Small Faces-era; exactly the person to distract you from a major loss.  

They had a baby boy - no, against any reasonable expectation, his name was not Rod; maybe because already their dog had been named after Bill's idol.


All this, the good and the bad, the loss and the gain, the beauty and the beast on the first trip bye:myself at the tender age of 14 planted a seed of eternal love for the British and their funny little island. 



One day was enough to see most part of the 'official' attractions.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
Narodni Trg, aka Pjaca, is one of the most beautiful squares in Split.

But then there are also museums and galleries. And many very nice little specialty shops that do sell quality things made in Croatia instead of some touristy crap. And cute little cafés where you can sample yummy pastry and watch people.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
A tiny café, but nicely decorated.

Then, like many Croatian cities, Split has a city beach which is not as bad as city beaches tend to be. And there is the Marjan Forest Park that I did not visit - mainly since I came to Split after having visited two National Parks.

There is simply too much to see and to do to cover it all in one trip.


bye:myself - Renata Green - byemyselftravels - Split Croatia Dalmatia
A local boy band singing traditional Dalmatian songs at the Palace's Vestibule.

But I'm giving it all and doing my best; therefore I'm now heading to the storage container thingy to get my far too full and heavy suitcase back and hit the road again.

Or rather the water: I'm going by ferry to the island of Korčula.



Note to the curious reader: Like I did during my former like e. g. Cambodia, while on the road, I'll be posting little stories and reflections. At the end of the entire tour, there will be an extended travel guide with all the relevant information including addresses, links etc. Until then, just share some thoughts and special moments with me. 



Wanna know about the former stops? Here is where I've been: 

Croatia Bus Road Trip. First Stop Poreč

Croatia Bus Road Trip. Second Stop Cres

Croatia Bus Road Trip. Third Stop Rijeka

Croatia Bus Road Trip. Fourth Stop Plitvice Lakes

Croatia Bus Road Trip. Fifth Stop Skradin and Krka National Park



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2 comments:

  1. I love your blog, especially this post! I just wanted to say that you were amazing guest in our Apartment ( actually one of my favorite). You can rearly see now people full of life as you are.It was lovely meeting you and I hope you enjoy a rest of your trip 😊💖

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    Replies
    1. Dina!!! Thanx so much for your kind words! The only flaw was: It was far too short. But the short time I had at your place was very enjoyable. Hvala - see you again one day 💝💝💝

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