CAMBODIAN DIARY - 3rd CHAPTER - Calmness in Koh Rong

A makeshift beach bar in the middle of nowhere.

Koh Rong Sok San Beach
You might not see it on this picture, but this chair just has my name on it....

You don't have a clue how beautiful nowhere can be!

The Dream

The sand is fine and light eggshell white, the water so clear as if pumped into the Ocean freshly from a giant faucet. That's why it's the color of topaz very far towards the horizon where it changes into a deeper shade of blue. Its surface crinkles slightly so that the sun has it easy to decorate it with an ever-changing pattern of reflections.
Only the last three feet towards the shore the water gets a bit cocky and finishes its flow with a mild last wave before it lazily rolls back.

There's still a bit space left on Sok San Beach.

As I'm reading on my beach chair, I have to look up every now and then to convince myself that all this is real and still there.

The beach bar's sound system is playing an unusual, very soothing mix of Motown hits from the 70s, ethnic tunes from Africa and the Middle East and Bossa Novas from Brazil alternate with John Lennon's 'Imagine' and weed-inspired Reggae.

Relaxed hangout.

Weed, yes, as the young French comes back from his snorkeling which is possible just a couple of feet off the coast, he lights a joint. When I turn my head to look where the smell is coming from, he asks in a very cordial way whether I mind, he could sit somewhere else. Normally I hate the smell of weed, but in this complaisant atmosphere I don't want to deny anybody anything - hey, obviously I did say 'bye' to myself....

Everybody at this place falls immediately in a collective mode or relaxation and serenity.
There are maybe ten people in total - all more or less middle aged. No young party crowd or broke backpackers. These folks stay at Kaoh Touch on the other side of the island, in the East. The folks with the big bucks stay about 1.5 miles up the beach at a posh resort close to the village. But that resort is far too much of this world, no magic there.

Heavy traffic on Sok San Beach

This place is maybe the most mesmerizing spot I've ever been to.

Everyday at 1 p. m. they offer a fishing and snorkeling tour for 10 bucks. Sounds great, but I feel like I should cherish every single moment I can be in this very spot that's so perfect to me.

One could also rent a Kayak. One could do many things. One can also just stay in one spot.

The Awakening

As I go on a walk along the beach towards the village I'm cruelly reminded of being in Cambodia: The whole way is lined with garbage of different kind. I don't know whether the Ocean washed this trash up to the beach or if the water will take it into the sea one of these days - it's horrible, it's ugly, it's dangerous, it's disastrous.

It looks wonderful. But the scrub along the still very clean beach is full of discarded stuff.

However, this walk of about one hour showed me that I've spent two days in the best spot of Koh Rong. Of Cambodia. Of the world.

At the end of the day the sun sets over Sok San Beach. What a grand finale!

Wanna know what happened before? Here are the previous chapters of my Cambodian Diary:

CAMBODIAN DIARY - 1st CHAPTER - Commotion in Phnom Penh

CAMBODIAN DIARY - 2nd CHAPTER - Confusion in Sihanoukville

Note to the curious reader: Like I did during my trip to Colombia earlier this year, in this Cambodian Diary I'm posting one chapter from every stop. At the end of the entire tour there will be an extended travel guide with all the relevant travel information including addresses, links etc. 
Until then, just enjoy my narratives and reflections.

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